||Steed's (Webster's) Fashions
- fluoro orange surplice with central pocket, the breast above the pocket diagonally quilted, over black long-sleeved skin-tight stretch nylon catsuit, high neck, black boots
- black rimmed round spectacles, white collared blouse with puffed sleeves and cloth buttons (four on each cuff, about twelve down torso), black knee-length skirt
- (2) without the spectacles
- (2) with a black and white spatter patterned overcoat, a pleated skirt in place of the plain one, with black court shoes
- black velvet sleeveless top with metal buttons, black trousers, briefly with the coat from (4)
- wide brimmed black Bolero hat, black crew neck blouse, short black jacket with four buttons, tan riding pants, ankle boots
- black pullover and dark trousers, black shoes
- grey three-piece suit - flap pockets - with white shirt and dark rectangular patterned tie
- (2) with light tie and black bowler, umbrella
- hawaiian shirt - white ground with large red flower design, short sleeves, with panama hat with matching band, light shorts, false moustache
- deerstalker cap, Victorian hunting tweeds including plus fours, false moustache
- navy chalk striped three-piece suit with white city shirt, metal links, dark rectangular patterned tie, initially without the jacket
- (6) with black bowler and umbrella
- Hounds tooth jacket, white shirt, trilby hat, red white and blue diagonally striped tie with gold crown in centre, dark trousers, false moustache
- ugly furry cardigan with black skivvy and brown trousers
- dark three-piece suit with white shirt, dark solid tie, red carnation, briefly with a black bowler and umbrella
- (11) with turned back cuffs, briefly with a large buttonhole with foil and ferns, later with a single red carnation
- brown suede fronted cardigan with wide lapels, black skivvy
- grey three-piece suit - single button at waist, two vents - with matching bowler, umbrella, white shirt, pale silk tie
- (14) with camera tiepin
- brown cardigan with black polo shirt, tan trousers, brown chelsea boots
A note on the timecodes
Where I have listed two sets of timecodes, the first is from the 2009-11 Optimum Releasing/Studio Canal DVD sets, any other timecodes are from the A&E and Contender DVD sets from a decade beforehand.
The new releases have been remastered and their frame rate has been changed, resulting in a shorter running time. However, the picture quality has increased markedly. I assume this is because they used a simple 2:2 pulldown (24 @ 25)
when converting from the original film masters (film runs at 24 frames per second, while PAL runs at 25fps, the new DVDs are in PAL format).
This pulldown was also the cause of audio errors on many episodes, especially for Series 5, as the audio sped up to match the new rate (4% faster), rather than being properly pitch-shifted. Checking the dialogue sheets, which list the feet and frames of the reels, it looks like the speed change is around 5.04%, so there may be some cuts as well - probably from around the commercial breaks and ends of reels, as they amount to about 25 seconds. All my assumptions are based on the episodes having been filmed on standard 35mm film, which has 16 frames per foot and runs at 24 frames per second, so a minute of footage uses 90 feet of film (1,440 frames).
These audio errors have been corrected in the currently available DVDs, but the 2:2 pulldown remains. There is also the addition of a Studio Canal lead-in, converted to black and white to match the episode for Series Four, but colour for Series Five, adding an extra 18 or 19 seconds to the runnning time and making it harder to match timecodes with previous releases. It's annoying that it has been slapped on every single episode, Series 1-3 didn't suffer this indignity.
The previous Contender and A&E DVD releases didn't seem to suffer from these problems, so I assume they either used soft telecine and preserved the original 24fps rate of the film (my preferred option in DVDs) or they used 24 @ 25 pulldown (2:2:2:2:2:2:2:2:2:2:2:3 Euro pull-down)
. Let's hope the much-rumoured bluray release will revert to native 24fps with soft telecine so we won't have these problems again.